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Malaysia: women confronted by ‘fashion police’

Women in Malaysia, long seen as a moderate Islamic nation, have been denied entry to government buildings on the grounds their skirts were too revealing, fanning fears of growing conservatism in a country with large non-Muslim minorities.


Prime Minister Najib Razak’s reluctance to intervene on the sudden enforcement of a dress code, analysts say, shows the liberal-minded leader is unwilling to stand up to conservatives at a time when he is battling allegations of corruption.


Ethnic sensitivities can often trigger dispute in Malaysia, particularly as none of those criticized for their clothes was from the Muslim Malay community that forms two-thirds of a population of about 30 million. Ethnic Chinese number 25 percent, and Indians about 7 percent.


The dress code, which bars revealing clothes for women in government buildings, had not been strictly followed, so the tougher enforcement over garments seen as showing too much leg came as a shock to many Malaysians.


The incidents went viral on social media, with activists saying they highlighted an expansion of powers for minor officials, who can now judge, and correct, women’s attire.


“They’re not paid to be fashion police,” said rights activist Marina Mahathir, the daughter of former prime minister Mahathir Mohamed.


“Because we don’t hear someone at the top saying, ‘This is wrong,’ that’s taken as condoning these actions and a license for them to do that.”


Mahathir himself had objected to similar measures imposed by officials during his 22-year tenure, she added. The most recent incidents showed that Malaysia was regressing and “acting like Saudi Arabia”, the former prime minister has said.


In June, the leotard worn by a national gymnast also provoked outcry as being too provocative.


Malay women began adopting conservative styles of dress in the 1970s, reflecting a growing politicization of religion in the Islamic world. Many now wear the headscarf that in earlier decades had been worn mostly in conservative backwaters.


Political analysts and activists have long accused parties such as Najib’s United Malays National Organization, which leads the ruling coalition, of using religion to shore up voter support.


“Leaders are afraid if their religiosity is questioned, that they may anger, or lose voters,” said Ivy Josiah, an adviser to the Women’s Aid Organization.


A Malaysian woman walks past mannequins displaying traditional head scarves or tudung at a Ramadan market ahead of the Eid al-Fitr festival in Kuala Lumpur on July 12, 2015. AFP PHOTO / MANAN VATSYAYANA        (Photo credit should read MANAN VATSYAYANA/AFP/Getty Images)

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UMNO, which suffered its worst electoral result in 2013, relies on support from ethnic majority Malays, who are mostly conservative, particularly in rural areas.


It now faces scrutiny over Najib’s role in debt-laden state fund 1Malaysia Development Berhad (1MDB), although a government report cleared its accounts of suspicion.


Najib recently said Islam’s holy book, the Koran, would be the guide for all government policies and actions. The constitution enshrines Islam as Malaysia’s religion, but allows the practice of other faiths.


“Whenever supporters raise conservative issues, Najib has always kept quiet,” said political analyst Wan Saiful Wan Jan, of the Institute for Democracy and Economic Affairs.


“He may be progressive, but he has failed to convince his party and government to follow him.”


The prime minister’s office did not respond to a request for comment.


“EMBARRASSMENT”


Religious scholars saw the stricter enforcement of the dress code as a mark of respect to Muslims, particularly during the just-concluded month of Ramadan, when fasting in daylight hours brings religious merit, according to scripture.


“If a Muslim who is fasting sees a woman’s ‘aurat’ then it’ll just erase their benefits,” said Harussani Zakaria, a cleric in the northern state of Perak, referring to the parts of the body that Muslim scriptures say must be covered.


Some of the women objected to the criticism they faced.


“To me, it was an embarrassment,” said C. Premananthi, a 32-year-old reporter who was barred from entering a government building, but who refused to wear a sarong security officials offered her instead.


Activists say the availability of such sarongs handed to the women is evidence of a wider, quiet movement toward greater conservatism encouraged by the authorities.


“Somebody had to purchase it and give it to the security guards,” said Marina, adding, “It points to some form of regulation.”


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3D technology: the future of high fashion?

The fashion industry, one would think, would most likely be the last bastion of the anti-technologist; it is a world that prides itself in being organic, creative, and spontaneous – ostensibly incompatible with the engineered and the determistic world of technology.


However, FashionLab – a fledgling initiative under Dassault Systèmes – has found a unique approach to engaging with the fashion industry: through the medium of 3D technology.


According to Jérôme Bergeret, Director of FashionLab, 3D technology has been “a revelation for the fashion industry,” especially luxury brands. For him, technology is able to unlock the potential of designers and actually free their minds, letting them focus on the core issues of creativity while automating the laborious tasks.


FashionLab was established as a technology incubation project in 2010, dedicated to fashion designers. The idea behind FashionLab is to create tools and services to assist designers in bringing their ideas to life using 3D virtual technology, and adapt Dassault Systemes’ expertise to meet the specific needs of the fashion world. “Today’s fashion industry still makes use of 2D design assets in creating their collections. We want to propose an alternative for the next decade, [wherein] artistic directors, stylists and the fashion community can design in 3D from the first creative instant, produce a virtual prototype of their garment/collection, and enhance the customer experience using 3D technology,” Bergeret says.


Collaboration with the design industry


FashionLab aims to link the fashion world and the virtual world of 3D by marrying the engineering creativity of Dassault Systemes with the artistic inventiveness and industry know-how of today’s fashion designers. It aims at giving rise to a fashion 3D experience that integrates design and simulation, as well as providing a platform for collaboration to create an entire collection.


A primary challenge for bringing the fashion design process to 3D, according to Bergeret, has been to establish a common language between a right-brained creative/artistic designer and a left-brained engineer.


“We wanted to reveal Dassault Systemes as credible to perform in that space of designing for fashion,” he says. To do this, FashionLab collaborates with designers like Julien Fournié for haute-couture apparel, Jonathan Riss for jewelry, and François Quentin for watchmaking, to come up with its next generation of solutions and 3DExperience through collaboration and simulation.


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According to Fournié, trying to sketch in 3D during the development of FashionLab tools was “fantastic!”


“My 3D ideas were coming to life faster than I could have thought, taking shape in 3D volumes. I could make the drawing turn around and literally mould it into a sculpture before my eyes, using a digital pen and tablet. I could not believe it: not only could I create a silhouette, but also, check from every angle how it could look around the body. Of course, it took me time to get used to the new tools, and if you are a bad sketcher, 3D drawing will not solve your creative problem. However, if you have talent and experience in the art of drawing, the 3D digital tool I am proud of having contributed to creating, will empower your possibilities and help you think in 3D.”


Bergeret is quick to emphasize the crucial participation of these fashion designers—and not just their assistants—in order to make 3D fashion technology truly intuitive and respectful of traditional craftsmanship. “Key from day one was making sure that 3D asset design was really made/performed by the artistic director himself. We have to introduce 3D from the first creative moment—not in the mid-stream, not in the development by the pattern maker or the technical staff. It has to be made by the designer. We want to propose the full 3D experience where goods are produced only on demand, and where craftsmanship will be reinforced to validate this innovative new concept,” he says.


Apart from leading designers, FashionLab works with large fashion and luxury companies, design schools, and technology companies. These partners currently work with FashionLab on incubation projects, including trends gathering, 3D holistic design solutions, and the luxe store experience.


Is 3D the future of fashion?


FashionLab firmly believes that 3D will be in the DNA of future collections for the fashion industry. “Our mission is really to demonstrate that this concept can work, from B2B and B2C, from concept to consumer. We’ve made headway over the last three years—we’ve started to design in 3D, to experiment the capacity to design garments in 3D; we’ve worked with everyone from the luxury watch industry to the jewelry industry; and we’ve investigated all these subdomains of the fashion industry,” he says. Its store incubation project, in particular, saw fruition when FashionLab launched a virtual showroom of Fournié’s premier collection.


While the 3D digital and virtual revolution is still at its nascence, FashionLab asserts it will spell a host of benefits for the fashion industry. Currently, today’s retailers often engage in mass production in their efforts to capture what consumers want, but 3D technology could change this. “Since we entered the space of 3D digital strategy, FashionLab sees a tomorrow where, with 3D printing, we wouldn’t have to produce massive volume in a low labor country. We can produce on demand, locally, close to the consumer, and even minimize our ecological footprint,” Bergeret says.


With a 3D design approach, the entire fashion business can be built on sustainability. At the brick-and-mortar level, which FashionLab had demonstrated in its collaboration with Fournié, the digital store can become an extension of the physical. “In the future, until the customer decides to buy stuff on demand, the product would not exist. It’s all virtual,” he says.


Such concept “imagined” by FashionLab may seem worlds away, especially for big-box retailers, but in the luxury business where bespoke items figure highly into the preferences of a discerning clientele, Bergeret says “this is already happening. In 2020, 50 percent of the luxury business will happen through digital. Everybody’s going through mobility, buying through mobile devices—it’s the story of the world.”


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